一、材質(zhì)

1、 Material

目前布草的原料依然是以棉花為主，棉花的品質(zhì)在根本上決定了面料的好壞。

At present, cotton is still the main raw material for linen, and the quality of cotton fundamentally determines the quality of the fabric.

粗絨棉：也叫亞洲棉，原產(chǎn)于印度。產(chǎn)量低、纖維粗短，不適合機(jī)器紡織，棉纖維長度小于23mm。

Coarse cotton: also known as Asian cotton, originating from India. Low yield, coarse and short fibers, not suitable for machine spinning, cotton fiber length less than 23mm.

細(xì)絨棉：常見的棉花。也叫陸地棉，原產(chǎn)于中美洲。在棉花總產(chǎn)量中占85%，在中國棉花總產(chǎn)量中占98%。目前大多數(shù)平價棉織品都采用細(xì)絨棉，棉纖維長度23～33mm。

Fine velvet cotton: a common type of cotton. Also known as upland cotton, it is native to Central America. It accounts for 85% of the world's total cotton production and 98% of China's total cotton production. At present, most affordable cotton fabrics use fine velvet cotton, with a cotton fiber length of 23-33mm.

長絨棉：高級的棉花。也叫海島棉，原產(chǎn)于南美洲。纖維長、強(qiáng)度高、吸水性強(qiáng)，呈現(xiàn)蠶絲光澤，纖維長度一般大于33mm，甚至能達(dá)到60-70mm。

Long staple cotton: premium cotton. Also known as island cotton, it is native to South America. The fiber is long, strong in strength, and has strong water absorption, presenting a silk luster. The fiber length is generally greater than 33mm, and can even reach 60-70mm.

二、工藝

2、 Craftsmanship

紗線的粗細(xì)、織布的密度是決定面料品質(zhì)的兩大重要指標(biāo)，就是常說的“紗支密度”。

The thickness of the yarn and the density of the woven fabric are two important indicators that determine the quality of the fabric, commonly known as "yarn count density".

紗支

Yarn count

先說紗支，紗支是指紗線的粗細(xì)程度，支數(shù)越高，紗越細(xì)，對原料要求就越高。

Let's first talk about yarn count, which refers to the thickness of the yarn. The higher the count, the finer the yarn, and the higher the requirements for raw materials.

紗支的計算方法，可以簡單理解為：將一磅重的棉花紡成一根840碼長度的紗，這根紗的粗細(xì)就是1支；紡成8400碼長，這根紗的粗細(xì)就是10支；長度為840碼的N倍，粗細(xì)就是N支，支數(shù)數(shù)多，紗就越細(xì)。

The calculation method of yarn count can be simply understood as: spinning one pound of cotton into a yarn of 840 yards in length, and the thickness of this yarn is one count; Spinning it into 8400 yards long, the thickness of this yarn is 10 pieces; The length is N times that of 840 yards, and the thickness is N pieces. The more pieces there are, the thinner the yarn.

紗支采用英制單位S，雙股紗則標(biāo)記為S/2，如果經(jīng)紗和緯紗支數(shù)不同，例如經(jīng)紗40支、緯紗30支，面料支數(shù)會表示為40S*30S。

The yarn count is in English units of S, while double ply yarn is marked as S/2. If the number of warp and weft yarns is different, such as 40 warp and 30 weft yarns, the fabric count will be represented as 40S * 30S.

密度

density

密度是指面料每平方英寸中經(jīng)紗和緯紗的根數(shù)，例如經(jīng)紗133根，緯紗72根，密度就是133*72。

Density refers to the number of warp and weft yarns per square inch of a fabric, for example, 133 warp yarns and 72 weft yarns, resulting in a density of 133 * 72.

業(yè)內(nèi)常用經(jīng)緯紗根數(shù)之和來描述，用單位T來表示，例如經(jīng)紗133根，緯紗72根，那么面料密度約為200T(根)。高支是高密的前提，紗支越高，才能織出更密的面料來。一般60S/300T以上就可以稱為高支高密面料。

The sum of warp and weft yarns is commonly used in the industry, expressed in units of T. For example, if there are 133 warp yarns and 72 weft yarns, the fabric density is about 200T (yarn). High yarn count is a prerequisite for high density, and the higher the yarn count, the more dense the fabric can be woven. Generally, fabrics above 60S/300T can be referred to as high count and high-density fabrics.

但不同支數(shù)對應(yīng)的面料密度是有所限制的。 而且密度不是越高越好，隨著密度的增加，面料會變得密實甚至防水，透氣度、舒適度就大打折扣。

However, there are limitations on the density of fabrics corresponding to different counts. Moreover, the higher the density, the better. As the density increases, the fabric will become dense and even waterproof, greatly reducing breathability and comfort.

編織方式

Weaving method

面料的編織方式，也是判斷品質(zhì)的一個依據(jù)。大致上分為平紋、斜紋、緞紋三種。

The weaving method of the fabric is also a basis for judging the quality. It can be roughly divided into three types: plain, twill, and satin.

平紋：經(jīng)紗和緯紗一上一下規(guī)律交織形成的織物組織，經(jīng)緯紗的交織點多。正反面外觀相同，質(zhì)地堅牢挺括、表面平整。平紋密度一般不高，支數(shù)在30支左右，輕薄透氣，價格也較低。也有少數(shù)繡花面料采用高密平紋。

Plain weave: A fabric structure formed by the regular interweaving of warp and weft yarns, with multiple interweaving points between warp and weft yarns. The front and back have the same appearance, with a firm and firm texture and a smooth surface. The plain weave density is generally not high, with around 30 pieces, lightweight, breathable, and affordable. There are also a few embroidered fabrics that use high-density plain patterns.

斜紋：經(jīng)紗和緯紗至少隔兩根紗才交織一次，經(jīng)緯紗交織點少，表面浮線較長，手感松軟，密度較高，比較厚實，立體感強(qiáng)。斜紋也是一種常見面料織法，支數(shù)有30支、40支、60支不等。

Twill weave: The warp and weft yarns are interwoven at least once every two yarns. The warp and weft yarns have fewer interweaving points, longer surface float lines, a soft texture, high density, and a relatively thick texture, with a strong sense of three dimensionality. Twill is also a common fabric weaving method, with counts ranging from 30, 40, and 60.

緞紋：經(jīng)緯紗至少隔三根紗才交織，織物密度更高，更加厚實，布面平滑細(xì)膩，富有光澤，類似錦緞。經(jīng)紗浮在織物表面，所以一般采用高支的精梳紗，比同類平紋、斜紋成本更高。

Satin pattern: The warp and weft yarns are interwoven at least three times, resulting in a higher density and thickness of the fabric. The fabric surface is smooth and delicate, with a glossy finish, similar to brocade. The warp yarn floats on the surface of the fabric, so high count combed yarn is generally used, which is more expensive than similar plain and twill yarns.